The perfume capital of the world and the birthplace of many fragrances, the Provence offers an opportunity for visitors to challenge and develop one of the most under-rated of our senses.

Arriving by rental car, we spent a full 3 days exploring its picturesque medieval towns, whiffing the scents of its famous perfumeries and enjoying the endless lavender and flower fields. 

We found ourselves in a place that has been calling us for many years. 

What to do

Visit the charming villages of the Luberon

What this blog article should actually be all about: our road trip through the picturesque mountain villages of Provence in Luberon. The Luberon is a mountain range in the south of the Vaucluse Département. Vineyards and olive groves as far as the eye can see, tiny mountain villages with charming stone houses and last but not least: lavender fields. The most commonly asked question we get here is – “When do the lavenders bloom?”. We will also answer that question for you. But first, let’s introduce you to the three “les plus beaux villages de France” that we recommend to visit.

  • Gordes

Our first stop and also our base for the trip. Gordes sits enthroned on a rocky cliff face. No wonder Gordes is such a popular photo opportunity in France and whose silhouette can be found in many guidebooks and pamphlets. The most beautiful thing about Gordes is its beautiful panoramic view from a distance. You have a great view of Gordes right at the entrance to the village. Of course, a walk through the streets of the old town is also worthwhile. The main attraction in area is the Monastery called Notre-Dame de Sénanque outside the city centre. During lavender season it is probably the most visited destination in the region, because the lavender fields in front of the photogenic monument make it an absolute classic.

  • Roussillon

The village that dances out of the line. Roussilon is known for its reddish ocher rocks around which it is built. For this sight alone, a stopover is definitely worthwhile. Depending on the time of day and the position of the sun, the ocher rocks glow in a variety of shades of red and orange. Along the popular “Sentier des Ocres” you can hike directly through the ocher landscape. The area has one of the largest natural ochre deposits in the world. From the late eighteenth century, when the demand for rich, vibrant colours in the textile industry was at its peak, up until the 1930’s, Roussillon’s quarries employed thousands to mine their ochre deposits. Once mining was forbidden, to protect the area’s degradation, the area returned to farming; vineyards, fruit orchards and melons, much of which is used today for crystallized fruit production in nearby Apt.

  • Bonnieux

Bonnieux is located on a plateau of the Luberon and is definitely worth a visit. Although Bonnieux is very popular, there was much less happening along the streets than we’d expected. Highly recommended is the short walk up to the church “Église haute” at the top of the hill. Through the treetops on the way up, you have a magnificent view over the plain of northern Luberon to Mont Ventoux.

Scent the Lavender 

“Lavender is the soul of Provence”, said the writer Jean Giono, who chose the purple-blue summer landscape of Provence as the setting for many of his quintessentially French novels. Each year between late June and early August, visitors from all over the world come to marvel at Lavender fields across the region. The floral displays reach their peak in July, although we do advise that the best time to go is between mid and end of June as the area gets busy once the summer holidays begin. The best places to see vast Lavender fields are the Luberon and the Valensole plateau. The fields in the Luberon valley region begin to bloom around mid-June while the blooming in the Valensole plateau begins around early July.

To learn more about the history and significance of Lavender farming, visit the Lincelé family at the Lavender Museum on the slopes of the Vaucluse Hills. Here, you can enjoy audio guides and family-friendly quizzes. You can also visit the distillery where traditional steam processes transform the harvested lavender into 100% essential oil products. There are also lavender festivals throughout the region in July; celebrating local traditions, food, folk music, arts and crafts, as well as showcasing the exceptional lavender products which include soaps and cosmetics, but also lavender honey and sorbet – definitely worth a taste!

Where to stay

The best way to experience the tranquil nature of the Provence is by staying at one of the many Bed and Breakfasts in refurbished farmhouses. B&Bs range from simple farmhouses to newly refurbished five star villas. We opted for a boutique B&B called Villa Vagabonde. A charming contemporary B&B in a refurbished farmhouse from the 19th century situated in Gordes. The Villa consist in three fine, light rooms to guests. All is brand new; the stone-walled breakfast terrace, patios and pool are as quiet and delightful as the interior. Veerle and Wim, the owners, are delightful and generous hosts and created a place for lovers of modern style and timeless Provence.